Alicia Lartey is an esthetician, renowned for her science-backed, inclusive approach to skincare and beauty. As well as studying cosmetic chemistry, Lartey serves as the head of new product development and education at the bodycare brand, Supernova Body.
Lartey is committed to addressing the unique needs of Black skin, which commonly suffers the consequences of underrepresentation in dermatology education and product development.
An Environmental Working Group study found that 80% of the beauty and skincare products marketed to Black women are linked to elevated risks of diseases like breast and uterine cancer. Lack of safety protocols in research underscores the importance of Lartey’s work. There is a need to champion diverse, ethical research practices that prioritize the well-being of all consumers, not just the majority.
Her contributions include the creation of the ‘Lartey Hyperpigmentation Scale’, a tool designed to help Black women identify and manage post-inflammatory pigmentation.
The Science Gap sat down with Lartey to discuss her motivation behind becoming an esthetician and the changes she hopes to drive in the skincare industry.
What motivated you to seek a career in dermatology?
I've always been interested in skincare. I've had bad acne. I've dermatitis on my scalp, psoriasis on my body, and keratosis pilaris on my arms. Every skin concern you could think of - I've had it. Still, I didn't want to be one of those people who DIY. I wanted to understand and learn more about skincare and beauty in general.
My first look into the skincare industry was through a marketing lens. I did an internship at a clean beauty brand, and it helped me understand that science is where it's at. You can't fake your way into results or long-term solutions to skin concerns.
Then, I was arguing with someone on Twitter, and they called me an unqualified skincare enthusiast. I said, “cool, bet - I'm going to study beauty therapy.” Alongside the course, I did a lot of my own research because it's a very white space. All the instructions are catered towards white skin. The models in the textbooks are white. Everything is white and white skin-focused.
I wanted to be the change in the industry for Black people and deeper-skinned Asian people. These are demographics that are often overlooked or grouped with lighter skin tones.
Why is it important for skincare professionals to understand how skin conditions present on Black skin?
I don't even think you should be able to call yourself a doctor, dermatologist, or esthetician if you can't recognize what conditions look like on different people.
What are some common skin issues you see in clients with Black or brown skin that often get misunderstood or misdiagnosed?
Eczema is one of them. I could even give myself as an example. I've got keratosis pilaris on my arms, and it's very clustered together. But when it's clustered together, it looks like eczema.
For years and years, I was using steroid creams to treat it, and nothing was happening. I was being sent back and forth between dermatologists. In the end, it was correctly diagnosed by a white doctor who also had keratosis pilaris. It looked the same on her, but her little dots are red, and my ones were brown. Just having a doctor who can recognize those nuances can save you a lot of time, heartache, and stress.
Have you noticed a lack of training or resources about treating Black skin in the esthetician/dermatology industry?
Absolutely. I wouldn't even say that Black skin is a thought. A lot of brands don’t even consider the effect their products will have on darker skin. During my training, my teachers didn't expect me to do any intense chemical peels or microeedling on people who look like me. They just expected me to have white clients. How does that make sense? If I exist
and want these treatments, other people who look like me and who are darker will exist and want these treatments too.
What changes would you like to see in the beauty and skincare industry to make it more inclusive and informed?
I would like to see brands funding research conducted by people of color, for people of color, about people of color.
It's now time for people to put their money where their mouth is and make actionable change. The discussions are great and they're useful for highlighting issues, but if there's no actionable change, then there's no point. There's no point at all.
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